With the invention of the electric light, the sewing machine, and mass production, there was a general rise in the status of the middle class. The positions of women became more important. In the early 1870s, the National Women’s Suffrage Association was born. Women looked to careers other than marriage, and that brought about changes in costume. Sports became more important in American life. In addition to croquet and archery, tennis became one of the favorite games for both men and women. As women's interest in sports and athletic activity increased, so did their need for appropriate clothing to wear while engaging in these activities. Much early active wear involved some form of pants under a skirt, or pants disguised as a skirt (How the skort when from rebellious garment to athleisure staple.)

The bustle of this tennis dress has been deflated, but the new silhouette did little to give more freedom of movement to the player. The dress is swathed around the knee and wrapped in folds resembling the swaddling bands of a medieval infant, causing the wearer to walk with very small steps. There was no sign of the feet, and women appeared to move as if propelled by some invisible machinery.

The bodice of this knitted wool tunic dress fits the figure very closely by means of seams and darts that extend down to well below the hips. It presents the entire torso from shoulder to knee defined as clearly as if in a body stocking. The neckline is high, while the sleeve is long; both are trimmed in lace. The tunic is closed with a long row of hooks and eyes.

This reproduction was made by Helen Terza based on an image in Blum 1974: 128 (d).

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