The fashion of the 1890s was a conflict between the desire for physical freedom and an unwillingness to relinquish the advantages of the clinging female. The small gigot or leg of mutton sleeve was worn until 1893. It expanded until 1897 then vanished. This outfit has a suit bodice and skirt of same material with a matching mantle, or cloak. Owing to the size of the sleeves the mantle has capelike sleeves and a waist band to hold it in place. Brocade, velvet or wool, adds interest and it is lined in satin. Accessories include hat, purse, gloves and jewelry. The contrasting color prevailed until 1897.

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