gardenfork

1908-1913

This gown designed from a photograph from the British Museum. The pouch in front and the raised waistband in the back help emphasize the S-bend. The purple ribbon and lace trim are sumptuous, but extravagance also lies beneath the surface. A transparent gown had an underskirt trimmed with pleating and flounces. The under dress is orchid with a deep gathered frill. In 1903 the silhouette included fuller sleeves. Some afternoon gowns as well as evening had a train that was often arranged around the feet in the front, when standing. Various kinds of hooks were used to keep it off the ground out of doors. Necks were covered during the day. The high necks of lace backed by chiffon or net reached right up under the chin. Wire and boning supports maintained the rigid effect. In the evening the neck was covered by a jeweled "dog collar." Queen Alexandra began this fad as she wanted to cover the scar on her neck. Hats increased in size until 1911.

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