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Category: 19th century

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1820s

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Category: 19th century

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1890s

This is a copy of a bodice imported from France about 1894 or 1895. It has a detachable neck yoke, revealing a neckline suitable for evening wear, which made it a practical addition to any lady’s wardrobe. The yoke is almost two circles joined at the center back, lined, and then pleated into a stand-up collar. The original gown from which this was copied has faded marks and threads that indicate there must have been trimming of black net, lace, and sequins at the top of the bodice, over the sleeve heads, and around the neck of the yoke. This expensive trim was probably removed to be used on another dress.

A French ladies’ magazine for August 1894 shows sleeves like these and states that “The Gigot sleeve, in some aspect, is used for all outdoor dresses.” We copied the Parisians in respect to the short puff sleeves and the long gloves which have been so fashionable in Paris for “smart” occasions. These sleeves are held out by black stiffened cotton and mounted onto a smaller sleeve of black taffeta.

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Category: 19th century

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1894

This ball gown is a copy of a Paris gown of 1894. This superb evening gown is of pale pink satin enriched with a sequin spray. The pointed waist is draped across the bust, and has a jabot falling down the front. This shoulder straps complete the square decollete. The puffed sleeves of taffeta gathered through the center, are in keeping with “dame fashion’s” dictates as large sleeves were re-introduced in 1893. The graceful skirt reveals the slow curve of the hips and is trimmed with silver thread and sequins. Only a vestige of the bustle is left in the form of pleats in the back of the skirt. It is accessorized with a fan and chatelain.

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Category: 19th century

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1897

The newest development in 1897 was a bias flounce at the bottom of the skirts. The center front closing, of the tightly fitted lining of this bodice, allows the extra front panel to be closed at the side for a smooth neckline. Sometimes two or three different trimmings were used on the same bodice. A belt of pleated silk covers the joint of the skirt and bodice. The matching silk petticoat provided the desired rustle as the wearer moved. A petal-shaped bustle supports the skirt in the back. Bloomers were worn underneath.

The hat of fine green straw in a sailor shape has a line of silk flowers backed by tulle puffs and topped with an aignette of feathers. The hat is indescribably light and dainty, it is of straw but the crown has been covered with tulle along which are placed silk roses. The parasol’s handle was covered with velvet and silk taffeta was used to recover this antique frame. The ruffle matches the gown. Pencil thin parasols with puffs are shown in the fashion magazines. Gloves and a knotted purse complete the outfit.

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