gardenfork

1908-1913

This gown designed from a photograph from the British Museum. The pouch in front and the raised waistband in the back help emphasize the S-bend. The purple ribbon and lace trim are sumptuous, but extravagance also lies beneath the surface. A transparent gown had an underskirt trimmed with pleating and flounces. The under dress is orchid with a deep gathered frill. In 1903 the silhouette included fuller sleeves. Some afternoon gowns as well as evening had a train that was often arranged around the feet in the front, when standing. Various kinds of hooks were used to keep it off the ground out of doors. Necks were covered during the day. The high necks of lace backed by chiffon or net reached right up under the chin. Wire and boning supports maintained the rigid effect. In the evening the neck was covered by a jeweled "dog collar." Queen Alexandra began this fad as she wanted to cover the scar on her neck. Hats increased in size until 1911.

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1909

World events often influence fashion. President Theodore Roosevelt sent a fleet of ships around the world to promote peace in 1908. They visited Japan in October 1908, and a treaty with Japan was signed in 1909. News reports sparked the interest in Japanese dress such as this kimono. It is a light robe which has the T-shape of the traditional dress of Japan. The material is satin, with a black print with white collar and wide full length Magyar sleeves. While a traditional kimono closes right over left and was secured with a belt called an Oboe. Ours is of good quality satin with tucks across the shoulders to provide fullness which is confined with a white ribbon.

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1905-1910

I call the next gown "cotton candy." We are now in the Edwardian period. This 1910 lingerie dress highlights the tall figure with front and back Point de Paris embroidery, lace and tucks below the yoke. Chic sleeves also display the tuck and lace insertions. The skirt is finished with a tucked flounce. This period concluded with the sinking of the Titanic and the beginning of the Great War in 1914.

The head was topped with an elaborate hat. Audubon Society was formed and laws passed to prevent the extinction of many birds. Wings, and sometimes entire birds were worked into hat designs. A well-dressed woman was never without her gloves, purse and a parasol.

The yoke of this beautiful lingerie dress front and back has Point de Paris embroidery and lace. Short tucks below the yoke. Chic sleeves display tucks and lace insertions. The skirt is finished with horizontally tucked flounce.  Hat. Gloves. Purse. Parasol.

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